The Jugged Hare

The Jugged Hare is a central-London banking boozer with a serious gastropub hiding at the back. The room keeps enough of the pub’s directness to make the evening easy, while the kitchen is clearly interested in more than a quick plate and a pint. Its seasonal British “in” list reads like a useful reminder of what the format can do: wood pigeon, rabbit, mussels, celeriac, artichoke, rhubarb, kale and nettles all appearing with a sense of purpose rather than trend-chasing.

The opening snacks were hard to resist. Mini crispy haggis, spiced goat Scotch eggs and black pudding croquettes disappeared quickly, setting the tone for a meal that wanted to be generous. Poached River Test trout, pig’s cheek with Herefordshire snails and Suffolk fallow deer terrine kept the menu moving through different kinds of richness. Spatchcocked Norfolk quail and langoustines for the table broadened the spread, while braised Devonshire kid goat was superb. Wood pigeon came in a modest portion and the mussels were average, small reminders that the menu was not uniformly strong.

Desserts were less persuasive: cornflake ice cream and apple and rhubarb crumble were average, while the British cheese platter was decent. That balance feels honest rather than disappointing. The Jugged Hare is good value for the amount of choice and pleasure it brings, and the night was more fun for not pretending every plate was a revelation. It is a handsome, capable gastropub with real appetite and enough seasonal ambition to make the back room worth finding. At 39.5, the score belongs to a very enjoyable British meal with a few uneven edges.