The Jolly Gardeners

From the main road, The Jolly Gardeners looks like any normal pub. The MasterChef blackboard outside quietly signals that the kitchen has other ambitions, and on a quiet Thursday the room offered a relaxed setting in which to see whether they were justified. A complimentary mini crab cake, seasoned with unusual Asian spicing, was a good early sign: the pub may be casual, but it is not content to be anonymous.

The starters arrived with some fine-dining instincts. Spiced goat’s cheese tart was tasty, though Karl wanted it to look tarter; sweet-chilli squid needed more spice; tuna tataki came recommended; and duck salad was overpowered by leaves. Potted coronation chicken was loved by one diner. The main courses then revealed the pub’s greatest strength: huge portions and a generosity that made the table feel properly fed. Crispy pork belly was perfect with amazing beetroot, goat’s cheese and aubergine ravioli was loved, while monkfish on a stodgy grain bed disappointed and braised lamb was slightly dry.

Dessert restored the balance. Hazelnut parfait with salted caramel ice cream was delicious, and the dark chocolate mousse was a hit, even if one diner found it rich. This was the best pub food eaten by the table, but like-for-like comparisons with fine dining inevitably cost it points. At 36, The Jolly Gardeners succeeds by giving the gastropub format real ambition without losing its generous, unceremonious welcome. The occasional wobble is easier to forgive in a room that remembers it is still a pub: the food reaches upwards, but the atmosphere keeps the whole experience grounded.