Spring – Somerset House

Say Somerset House and the first thought may be ice skating, but Spring occupies a more graceful corner of the magnificent palatial building. The entrance is unassuming; the reception is classy, and the restaurant feels like an elegant hidden gem once you are inside. Seasonal cocktails set an appropriately polished tone, while the possibility of spotting someone recognisable adds a little amusement without becoming the point of the evening. A wobbly table, wobbly chairs and the minor embarrassment of TableGate were less elegant, but the attentive, polite team handled the room well.

English sparkling rosé was a good companion to a menu with plenty of bright seasonal detail. The bread-and-butter opening was a small faux pas, but speck and sweet new-season peas with pecorino quickly found the restaurant’s strengths. Crab tagliolini was slightly disappointing; scallops with cauliflower purée were excellent. Buffalo mozzarella and beef tartare with Jerusalem artichoke were enjoyable, while guinea fowl did not quite land. Fillet of beef with salsa verde was more successful, and monkfish with clams kept the cooking pointed towards the sea.

The sides were superb: Fern Verrow leaves and cabbage sprouts with chilli and garlic brought freshness and character to the table. Bitter chocolate mousse was good, but the almond tart with Gariguette strawberries was the dessert to remember, followed by a good cheese course. Spring is not flawless, yet the beautiful setting, polished service and generally light-footed cooking make it a classy place to spend an evening. Its elegance is real, even when the details occasionally wobble.