Mahjong Rooms

The Mahjong Rooms sit on the ground floor of XU, but they feel like a world tucked just away from Soho’s usual rush. Mahogany panelling, hand-painted murals and marble chandeliers give the rooms an atmosphere that is both theatrical and surprisingly settled. This is not a private dining space that has been stripped of personality; the decoration does much of the welcoming. Up to four guests can share a room, which makes the format feel properly intimate without becoming solemn or over-designed.

The appeal lies in the balance between the setting’s sense of occasion and the restaurant’s underlying energy. There is a lively character to the rooms, but enough quiet to let a meal unfold at its own pace. Chinese cooking suits that rhythm particularly well: a table can take its time, share widely and allow the evening to build through a sequence of different flavours and textures. Nothing about the experience needs to shout when the panelling, murals and low-lit details have already done the work of giving it a clear identity.

Mahjong Rooms are not trying to replace a bustling Chinese dining room; they offer a more concentrated version of the pleasure. The four-person limit gives the evening a natural shape, and XU’s sense of style keeps the private-room format from feeling corporate or anonymous. At 40.5, the score reflects a venue whose strongest qualities are its character, intimacy and joined-up sense of occasion. It is the sort of room that rewards a return because the atmosphere is distinctive enough to remember, while the cooking has enough precision beneath the surface to keep curiosity alive.