Cut @ 45 Park Lane

CUT at 45 Park Lane is Wolfgang Puck's premier steakhouse, and it understands the pleasure of being looked after before the first plate arrives. The cloakroom tickets are stunning; even the paperclips carry the branding. Opposite The Dorchester, the room has the dark, polished confidence of an expensive night out, but the best details are the ones that feel quietly exact. A spicy tuna amuse-bouche in a miniature cornetto and little Wagyu burger sliders — meaty heaven — establish the tone with neat precision.

The menu ranges from Wagyu A5, described as the best outside Japan, through corn-fed USDA Angus, Australian cuts and Devon beef. A Wolfgang Puck Sauvignon Blanc raises money for Alzheimer's research, while a Double Happiness mocktail gives the non-drinker something properly considered. Lobster and crab Louis with spicy tomato horseradish is a bright start; the pork belly is bite-perfect and inspired some immediate starter envy. The USDA rib-eyes and fillet were very good, though merely OK against the benchmark set by the room's promise.

The supporting cast is stronger: a Stilton topping receives rare praise, rosemary crispy roasties, creamed spinach and macaroni cheese are very good, and the mustard selection — including French Violet — is properly impressive. One waiter replaced a dropped fork before it hit the floor; George, a Dublin waiter, supplied confidence and humour. A Valrhona soufflé is too big and rich, while the lemongrass and passion-fruit baked Alaska looks and tastes immense. CUT is a perfect occasional treat: polished, generous and very good company.